Keep that eye on itTony smith

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    Using Infra Red Film

Cup and amareto buscuit taken in B/W Infra Red

'Café
et
Buiscotti'


1/30th @ f4
Infra-red film is currently available as:
  1. Kodak B/W IR (the best!) Kodak IRmust be loaded and developed in total darkness (no kidding!).
  2. Ilford SFX
  3. Konica IR
  4. Ektachrome (false colour E6 - orange filter required)

The first three are all monochrome emulsions and require a red or (Hoya) infra-red filter for use.

Don't try metering as your camera will not meter beyond the visable spectrum. Bracket a lot.

When printing, use harder grades of paper (or filters for harder grades if using variable contrast paper).

 

 

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Merseyside's Royal Liver Building taken with Kodak IR

'Liver
Building -
Liverpool'


1/125 @ f16

One of Italies best kept secrets, the town of Urbino - Taken with Kodak IR

'Urbino -
Northern
Italy'


1/60th @ f22

Infra-red images on this page were taken using high speed Kodak IR film (HIE 135-36). All supplies of this film are from the USA.
The film should be stored in a cool place (under 13deg C) to keep fresh.
This is not the easiest IR film to use, but I find it the best.
It must be loaded in complete darkness as the film aperature lets in IR radiation. Failure to do this will cause random lines on negatives
Easier to load films include Konica IR (available in 35mm and 120roll), and Ilford SFX. The IR effects of these films are more subtle. TMAX400 can also be used for slight IR with a Hoya R72 filter. All these images were taken with a deep red / polorising / Hoya R72 filter or a mixture.
IR cannot be metered so a bracketting technique is necessary. Using an Olympus OM4ti, I usually use an aperature of F11 and bracket at 1/30th, 1/125th and 1/500th sec.
This gives a range of 6 stops and three densities of negative. This is to ensure that I obtain a printable negative.
Certain cameras use IR film / frame counters (eg some Canon EOS models), these will fog IR film & should be avoided. My trusty OM4ti is ideal for this. Development is usually about 8.5 minutes in TMax diluted 1+ 5. I often mix films in a five film paterson tank.
I use a fujimoto 6x6 enlarger and in general use ilford multigrade papers. It is difficult with IR films to avoid a "soot and sawdust" style print. Grades 2 & below can sometimes help.
My interest in alternative fashion invaraibly leads me into graveyards and old buildings. Plants, trees and foliage all make good subjects. I hope that you enjoy the Infra Red images here and it inspires you to try this type of film.
If you have a digital camera, you may be able to adapt it for infra-red. Be aware though, some models (like Olympus) filter out IR as a noise reduction measure. This renders them useless for this. I have only ever used Ektachrome colour slide IR film once (one I won in a competition & took 9 months to get processed!). None are good enough for public consumption!
If you have any comments, please contact me.


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